The Burbank Branch in N scale

Modeling the Southern Pacific Burbank Branch in N scale in 1970s

Progress

Plywood Subroadbed

Building a plywood subroadbed using 15mm-thick plywood

For a switching layout, using a plywood subroadbed is an easy and relatively quick way to establish a solid foundation for the trackwork.

Plywood subroadbed
Plywood subroadbed with longitudinal supports

I had the plywood cut to size for each of the three main sections of the layout (see track plan). Then, I reinforced the plywood base by gluing and screwing down 20mm x 35mm lumber.

I then prepared risers to hold the plywood base at the proper height (140cm – about 55″). However, I haven’t attached the base to the risers yet.

I used a laser level I bought on Amazon to install the risers at the correct height. First, I clamped the risers to the benchwork, then I double-checked that the plywood base was level with the laser line. Once everything was aligned, I drilled pilot holes in the risers and screwed them down to the benchwork.

Using a laser level
Laser level to help installing benchwork
Laser level purchased on Amazon

Using a laser level speeds up the entire construction process. I keep it on throughout the session for a constant visual reference. Then I double-checked with an old-school level 🙂 to ensure everything was at the correct height and perfectly level.

Checking with old-school level
Checking plywood subroadbed with an old-school level

I proceeded with installing the risers for the three main subroadbed sections. The plywood base is just resting on the risers for now. The reason for that is I want to be able to flip the base to wire the tracks and Tortoise switch machines more comfortably.

Installing the plywood subroadbed
Plywood base

A 15mm-thick plywood subroadbed provides a sturdy foundation, ensuring durability and stability for trackwork and scenery on my N scale layout.

Using pre-cut plywood sheets speeds up construction, reducing material waste and simplifying layout assembly. Reinforcing the plywood with lumber prevents warping and keeps the track level over time. Wiring and switch machine installation are more accessible by flipping the plywood base during construction.

This method is ideal for switching layouts, offering a reliable and efficient track-laying surface.

Weathering Flatcars

Weathering flatcars to make plastic look like wood

Using acrylic paints, India ink, and a set of paintbrushes, you can achieve convincing results when weathering flatcars. I weathered the Atlas BN flatcar pictured below as well as an old Con-Cor SP flatcar, in service on my N scale layout.

Atlas BN flatcar

I first removed the trucks with couplers, then proceeded using Vallejo acrylic colors.

The key is to work in light layers. For the Southern Pacific flatcar, which already had a brown base, I applied a wash of dark brown for added depth.

I used Vallejo colors: White (71.001), Uk BSC 64 Portland Stone (71.288), Beige (71.074), N. 41 Dark Olive Drab (71.316) and Dark Rust Wash (76.507). Additionally, I prepared a solution by mixing a couple of drops of Winsor & Newton India Ink with water and 10 drops of isopropyl alcohol. I painted each groups of 2-3 wooden planks in different shades to create natural variation.

Vallejo colors

Here is the Con-Cor SP flatcar receiving a wash of diluted black India ink.

Wash of diluted black India ink

I used Vallejo Retarder Medium (70.597) to extend the drying time of acrylics, making brushwork easier and more controlled. First, I applied a wash of White (71.001).

Applying the first wash with white Vallejo 71.001

While Retarder Medium helps with layering by slowing down drying time, it also extends the overall drying process. I made sure the paint was completely dry before applying a wash of India ink, allowing it to seep into the gaps between the wooden planks by capillary action.

Weathering flatcars with India ink wash
Using a fine brush to apply India ink
Weathering flatcars with India ink

Then I carefully applied Vallejo Wash for rust effects, focusing on the area around rivets.

Using Vallejo Model Wash for rust effects
BN flatcar with added rust effect

I applied another diluted, random layer of Mahogany (71.036) and N. 41 Dark Olive Drab (71.316) to tone down the red rust color.

Weathering flarcars using Vallejo Mahogany color
Using Dark Olive Drab

Here is the BN flatcar after the paint has dried.

BN flatcar weathered
Weathering a flatcar, done!

And here is the final result on the SP Con-Cor car. The goal was to create the look of old wooden planks weathered by the elements and stained by various load spills over time.

Weathering flatcars: SP Flatcar finished

Installing the valance

Using Faesite (Masonite) sheet, installing the valance is quick and easy.

I purchased some black Faesite (Masonite) sheets, had them cut to length, and used them to install the valance. A valance helps direct and diffuse light onto the layout while preventing glare from LED strips or other light sources.

Below is a short video showing the final result with LED lighting on my N scale layout.

Valance Installation

Just like with the backdrop, I bent the board to create a smooth, rounded corner.

Installing the valance
Valance installed on the layout

Enhanced Visual Framing

The LED strips are hidden behind the valance. Installing the valance creates a more immersive and finished look by framing the scene and keeping the viewer’s focus on the trains and scenery. The valance helps conceal ceiling lights, room clutter, and other distractions outside the layout.

LED strips hidden behind the valance

Depending on the height and depth of the valance, the valance may make the layout feel more enclosed or get in the way of taller operators. Also, installing a valance requires additional materials, cutting, mounting, and possibly bending for curved corners.

That said, a well-designed valance adds a professional touch, making the layout appear more polished and realistic.

Lighting

I use three LED strips of different colors: 2700K, 4000K and blue light. Each strip is wired to a dimmable power supplies and dimmers , allowing independent control. Remote push-buttons control the lights. I used Italian brand Bticino Matix Go push-buttons.

Push-buttons to control the LED strips

I usually use a combination of 4000K and 2700K for daylight, while the blue light is on for night operations. In the photo below, the blue appears more saturated than it does in person.

Installing the valance: 4000K + 2700K
Blue light for nighttime operations

A well-planned valance and lighting setup transforms the look and feel of a model railroad. By combining different LED color temperatures, it’s possible to replicate natural lighting transitions, enhancing realism without drawing attention away from the trains.

Adjustable dimming and remote controls add convenience, allowing for seamless shifts between day and night scenes. Thoughtful lighting makes a huge difference in bringing the layout to life while keeping the focus on the trains and scenery.

LED Strips Installation

LED strips installation behind the valance

I started the LED strips installation by fixing the aluminum profiles on the valance ceiling, to light my N scale layout. The profiles are great for holding the LED strips in place and dissipating the heat they generate.

I initially planned to use only two LED strips – one 4000K and one 2700K – with dimmers to adjust the lighting color combination. Then, I decided to add a third blue LED strip for night operations. I’m not sure if I’ll use the blue LED strip, but I figured it would be easier to install it now rather than add it later.

LED Strips Installation: aluminum profiles

I cut the aluminum profiles to length and screwed them into the valance ceiling.

I cut the aluminum profiles to length

I then measured and cut the LED strips, soldering short wires to connect the corners. The LED strips are self-adhesive, so I proceeded securing them to the aluminum profiles.

Securing the LED strips with self-adhesive tape.

Illumination

After installing the LED strips I quickly realized they mainly illuminated the area directly beneath them. Part of the backdrop was clearly left in shadow. I needed to mount the LED strips at an angle to minimize the shadow effect.

LED strips illuminating the layout area.

Door wedges to the rescue! I purchased some wooden door wedges and I used them to mount the LED profile holders at an angle.

Wooden door wedges used to mount the LED strips at an angle
LED strip installation at an angle

The LEDs installed at an angle provide better illumination for the entire area. Below, you can see the three strips turned on: 2700K, 4000K, and Blue light.

All three LED strips are turned on: 2700K, 4000K and Blue light.

The next step is installing the valance using Faesite (Masonite) board. The valance helps frame the layout and masks the LED lights, preventing them from shining directly into the operators’ eyes.

Painting the backdrop sky blue

Using acrylic or latex paint with a soft roller is a quick way for painting the backdrop sky blue.

Painting the backdrop sky blue is a simple yet effective way to enhance the realism of a model railroad layout. The benchwork’s depth limits the world we can model; thus, the backdrop creates the illusion of extending the space.

There is a school of thought in model railroading that advocates for using a very light blue. The idea is that the backdrop should serve as a subtle foundation rather than a focal point.

This approach helps maintain realism and it enhances the illusion of depth without drawing unnecessary attention.

I used this particular brand of wall paint because it offers excellent coverage and a smooth, flat finish, perfect for creating a seamless backdrop. It’s made by Dulux, a British brand.

Acrylic light blue wall paint

After sanding the backdrop panel joints, the backdrop is ready for a coat of paint.

Backdrop joints smoothed out

First coat!

Painting the backdrop sky blue with a first coat of acrylic wall paint.

After the first coat of paint, I let it dry for about 24 hours before applying the second coat. I then waited another 24 hours before adding a third coat. Here is the backdrop after the paint has dried.

Backdrop painted, paint fully dry.

By using subtle colors and smooth transitions, the backdrop serves as a supporting element – complementing the scene rather than competing with it. In the end, the goal is not to create a detailed painting but to establish a convincing setting where the trains remain the focal point.

For added depth, distant mountains can be painted onto the backdrop, especially those characteristic of the San Fernando Valley, California. Soft, hazy outlines in muted earth tones can suggest the presence of the Santa Susana or Verdugo Mountains without overwhelming the scene.

Subtle atmospheric perspective – lighter tones and reduced detail – helps create a sense of distance. With careful shading and color transitions, the backdrop seamlessly integrates with the modeled environment, enhancing realism without distraction.

Upgrading from Rapido to Micro-Trains Couplers

Step-by-step guide on upgrading from Rapido to Micro-Trains couplers an older Atlas EMD GP40-2 locomotive.

I recently purchased a pair of older Atlas CSX GP40-2 locomotives at a good price on eBay. My goal is to upgrade these locomotives by replacing the factory Rapido couplers with Micro-Trains 1015 couplers, installing a DCC decoder, and repainting and re-lettering them for the Southern Pacific.

Upgrading from Rapido to Micro-Trains Couplers, Atlas GP40-2 shell removed

Removing the Old Rapido Coupler

Use tweezers to carefully remove the metal spring holding the Rapido coupler in place.

removing the old coupler spring

Gently detach the coupler retainer using tweezers or the non-cutting edge of a hobby knife.

removing the coupler retainer

Installing the new Micro-Trains Coupler

Remove the Rapido coupler entirely. Insert a pre-assembled Micro-Trains 1015 coupler into the coupler box.

Upgrading from Rapido to Micro-Trains Couplers, pushing in the new Micro-Trains 1015 knuckle coupler

Fit the original retainer back into place and securely push it into position.

securing the new coupler
new coupler secured in place

Checking Coupler Height After Upgrading from Rapido to Micro-Trains

Verify that both the front and rear couplers align correctly by using a Micro-Trains coupler height gauge.

checking front coupler height
checking rear coupler height

By upgrading from Rapido to Micro-Trains couplers, you will enhance the performance and appearance of your locomotives, ensuring compatibility with modern rolling stock while maintaining a realistic look.

Upgrading from Rapido to Micro-Trains Couplers, two GP40-2 with upgraded couplers

Rapido couplers, once a standard on many older N scale locomotives and rolling stock, are functional but lack the realism and operational reliability desired for modern model railroad layouts. They feature a bulky design that doesn’t closely mimic the appearance of real knuckle couplers, making them less appealing for hobbyists focused on realism.

Micro-Trains couplers, on the other hand, are widely recognized for their realistic knuckle-style design and superior performance. They provide smoother and more reliable coupling and uncoupling, which is crucial for layouts emphasizing realistic operation, such as switching industries or forming trains in a yard. Additionally, Micro-Trains couplers work seamlessly with uncoupling magnets, enabling hands-free operation, which enhances both playability and immersion.

For those looking to upgrade their layouts, converting from Rapido to Micro-Trains couplers is a worthwhile investment. It not only improves the overall aesthetic of the trains but also ensures smoother operations, reducing derailments and coupling issues that can disrupt realistic operating sessions.

LED layout lighting power supply and dimmer

Preparing LED layout lighting power supply and dimmer on the Burbank Branch in N scale

Lighting is a key factor on a model railroad layout. Good lighting ensures the layout is well-illuminated and visually appealing. Nowadays, COB LED strips provide an excellent source of evenly distributed light (with no dark spots) and are more energy-efficient compared to fluorescent or traditional light bulbs.

LED strips are also dimmable, provided they are powered through dimmable power supplies and connected to a dimmer.

Before installing the LED strips, I built a power and dimming station on a piece of 15mm-thick MDF to ensure clean and organized wiring.

LED layout lighting: power supplies and dimmers

In the photo above, there are two power supplies:

Dimmers

The three yellow square devices are dimmers. They are powered by the power supplies and provide dimmed current to the LED strips. Each dimmer is connected to a normally open pushbutton, which controls both the on/off function and dimming.

Initially, I planned to light the layout using only the combined 2700K and 4000K LED strips, with the dimmer allowing for a custom balance between the two color temperatures. However, I later decided to include a blue LED strip as well to illuminate the layout for night scenes.

Cooling

To improve cooling, I attached the power supply to the MDF baseboard using small nuts, which keep the power supplies elevated and allow air to flow underneath.

Raised power supply detail

The dimmers will be connected to pushbuttons, as shown in a previous post. The pushbuttons enable custom combinations of the three LED strips (4000K, 2700K, and blue) to create various lighting scenes beyond the traditional bright daylight.

Conclusion

Proper LED layout lighting significantly enhances the realism and visual appeal of a model railroad layout. By using COB LED strips, modelers can achieve evenly distributed light without dark spots, creating an optimal viewing experience. Pairing dimmable LED strips with a dimmable power supply and a dimmer switch allows for customizable lighting scenarios, from bright daylight to subtle nighttime effects.

For a clean and organized installation, mounting a power and dimming station on an MDF board helps manage wiring efficiently. Investing in a well-planned model railroad lighting system not only improves aesthetics but also ensures reliable, long-term performance.