Category: Trackwork

Trackplan and Wiring

Transfer the trackplan on plywood and start wiring the DCC and DC buses

Trackplan

I used masking tape to transfer the trackplan onto the plywood base, then started wiring the DCC and accessory DC buses.

test-fitting the trackplan using masking tape
Trackplan and wiring: test-fitting using masking tape

What works on paper doesn’t necessarily translate well to the layout. I like to use masking tape to sketch a rough version of the trackplan directly on the plywood subroadbed, allowing me to test-fit curves, sidings and spurs.

Wiring

There are three main buses running under the layout:

  • DCC bus, using 2.5mm² wires (14 AWG)
  • 12VC DC bus for Tortoise switch machines, using 0.75mm² wires (18 AWG)
  • 12VC DC bus for lighting, including streetlights and structure lights, using 0.75mm² wires (18 AWG)

I flipped the plywood base and started fixing the bus wires in a temporary, untidy manner. I will clean up the wiring once all the track feeders and Tortoise switch machines are installed, so that I can determine the correct length for each wire.

Plywood base flipped and wire bus installed
Trackplan and wiring: temporary length bus wires installed.

To tap power without cutting or stripping main wires, I used suitcase connectors – quick, reliable, and ideal for temporary setups. They let me add feeders or accessories on the fly, which is perfect while I’m still fine-tuning the layout.

This approach saves time now and prevents headaches later when the layout is more complete.

Wiring the layout with DCC and accessory power requires both solid planning and a bit of foresight. I installed a robust DCC bus using heavy-gauge wire for consistent power delivery, with feeders soldered in regularly to avoid voltage drops.

Accessory wiring, like 12V DC lines for Tortoise machines and lighting, runs separately for clarity and ease of troubleshooting.

While the system is built to be dependable, I’ve allowed for future adjustments – leaving a bit of slack, labeling connections, and routing wires with accessibility in mind. Layouts evolve, and the wiring can too.

N Scale Diorama: Ballast

Part I: Building an N scale diorama to test my modeling skills

Before committing to adding scenery to the layout, I want to build an N scale diorama featuring a section of track with ballast, a road, vegetation, and a few details.

It doesn’t have to be perfect, but it should serve as a test of my modeling skills after a 15-year hiatus from model railroading.

Basic Trackwork

I glued a strip of EVA foam to a piece of plywood, then secured a section of Micro Engineering Code 55 flex track, which I’ll be using on the layout.

N scale diorama, EVA foam and flextrack glued

Painting

Next, I painted the track Railroad Tie Brown. I had two Polly Scale bottles from the late 2000s, and both held up surprisingly well.

Polly Scale Railroad Tie Brown paint
Track painted with an airbrush

Ballast

The next step was ballasting the track using Woodland Scenics Buff B1373. I used a technique I have relied on for years – first spreading the ballast over the track, then using both a soft brush and my fingers to evenly distribute it between the ties.

N scale diorama, ballasting the track

Then, I misted the ballasted track with a 50/50 mix of water and 99.9% isopropyl alcohol, letting it soak for a minute. After that, I used a syringe to apply a 50/50 mix of water and matte medium, slowly sliding it along the rails to glue down the ballast.

I used Liquitex Matte Medium, following the advice of YouTuber Boomer Diorama.

Woodland Scenics Fine Ballast and Liquited Matte Medium.
Ballast soaked with glue (50/50 water and Liquitex Matte Medium)

Here is the result of the N scale diorama with ballast after the glue have dried.

N scale diorama: ballasted track

Weathering the N scale diorama track

For increased realism, I mixed dark brown powdered pigments with plaster of Paris in a 50/50 ratio to weather the area between the rails. Using a brush, I evenly distributed the mixture along the track with several strokes.

Powdered pigments
Spreading the powdered pigments and plaster of Paris mix with a brush.

Then, I misted the track with water, allowing the plaster to react and permanently set the weathering in place.

Misting the track to set the weathering powders

Starting Over the N Scale Diorama

Well, I wasn’t happy with the result. The ballast wasn’t evenly distributed, and some grains ended up on top of the ties. I also applied too much matte medium, which left a visible film on the rail sides. Long story short – it was a failure.

And I’m glad I failed. I’d rather make mistakes on a small N scale diorama than on the actual layout. That’s exactly why I built it – to test my skills, learn, and improve. So, I scraped off the ballast, removed the track, and started over.

Referring to other model railroads

I looked through photos of my previous layouts, and to my surprise, the ballast work wasn’t as good as I remembered. It wasn’t terrible, but I now aim for better results. So, I started studying photos and videos of other modelers’ layouts and sought advice on online forums.

One key takeaway was to use less ballast and spread it as evenly as possible. A helpful trick is tapping the tops of the rails with the same teaspoon used to pour the ballast – this helps it settle and compact for a more realistic finish.

I removed the EVA foam and trimmed it to be slightly narrower. Then, I glued it back down and secured the flex track with white glue.

N scale diorama: starting over with ballast.
A much better ballasting job
N scale diorama, ballast laid.

Glueing down the ballast

The track looks a lot better now. I mist the ballast with the same 50/50 water and alcohol mix, and let it soaked. This time I used another method for glueing the ballast, again thanks to an online model railroading forum member. They suggested to mist the ballast, instead of using a pipette or syringe. I used the same 50/50 water and matte medium mix.

Misting the ballast with 50/50 water and matte medium mix

Then, I let it dry for a day. It looks much better than the first attempt.

N scale diorama, a much better ballasting job.

Weathering, Take two.

This time I used black powdered pigments, as brown blends better when mixed with yellow and it more suited for sidings or spurs. 50/50 mixed with plaster of Paris.

Black powdered pigments and plaster of Paris
Black powdered pigments and plaster of Paris mixed with a brush

With the same technique, I distributed the pigments between the rails with a flat brush.

Then, I misted the diorama with water, allowing the Plaster of Paris in the pigment mix to bond and permanently fix the track weathering.

Here is the final result after the pigments dried and the rail heads were cleaned. Maybe I could have gone lighter with the soot and grease weathering between the rails or used a 30/70 pigment-to-plaster mix instead of 50/50.

Ballast and track weathering complete
N scale diorama: ballast complete, track weathered and an SP Intermountain SD45-T2

Standards

A set of standards helps in building and operating a reliable model railroad layout

Before starting a model railroad layout construction, a set of standards should be established to ensure smooth operations. These standards apply to trackwork, rolling stock, wiring, and DCC. My bare minimum standards are:

NMRA Standards Gauge N Scale
  • All code 55 tracks, using Micro Engineering flextrack and Atlas turnouts
  • DCC bus and feeders with the appropriate wire gauge
  • All Micro-Trains couplers set at the proper height
  • All BMF-equipped DCC decoders
  • Properly maintained and cleaned rolling stock
  • Properly maintained and cleaned tracks (using white spirits and graphite)

By strictly adhering to these standards, you can ensure smooth operating sessions and, ultimately, an enjoyable and rewarding experience.

Flextrack and Turnouts

Atlas code 55 turnouts and Micro Engineering code 55 flextrack are my choice

With my previous layouts, I have consistently favored N scale Atlas turnouts and Micro Engineering flextrack, both code 55.

  • They look realistic
  • They are reliable
  • They are reasonably priced

For this layout, the materials I chose to purchase are no exception.

While other brands, such as Peco, manufacture Fine Scale Code 55 track and turnouts – which I used extensively on some older European layouts – the tie spacing does not look prototypical for North American railroads.

Atlas code 55 #5 N scale turnouts and Micro Engineering Company code 55 flextrack
Atlas code 55 #5 N scale turnouts and Micro Engineering Company code 55 flextrack

Reliable operations

Mixing two track manufacturers is not generally advisable for reliable operations, but Atlas and Micro Engineering seem to connect without any issues. On my previous layout, I did not experience any trackwork problems or derailments that impacted operating sessions.