Backdrop reboot. Long story short: don’t be afraid of starting over.
It’s time for a backdrop reboot! I installed the valance and backdrop based on wall measurements, then installed the plywood subroadbed using a laser level. That’s when I realized the valance wasn’t level – and the culprit was the walls, not being square.
Free tip: Always use a laser level. They’re inexpensive and extremely useful – I wish I had bought one before installing the benchwork supports.
The backdrop is mostly fine, with only a small gap on the west end of the layout. However, the gap increases toward the east, as shown in the photo above. While the plywood base is level, the backdrop has a slight but steady incline.
At first, I thought I could fix it since the scenery isn’t done yet. But I quickly realized that the area I’m modeling is flat, with little vegetation – no hills or dense forests to hide the gap.
I tried thinking of a solution, but the more I considered it, the more I realized the backdrop needs to be scrapped and redone from scratch. So I did.
Starting over
Backdrop reboot! I carefully unscrewed and removed the old backdrop, taking care not to damage the LED strip lights or valance. Then, I installed new Faesite (Masonite) panels, aligning the backdrop with the subroadbed plywood base.
After installing the backdrop, I filled the gap with putty and smoothed it out. Now it’s ready for a coat of blue paint.
Using acrylic colors, I painted the plywood base tan. That serves as a basic color for the scenery.
Starting over can be frustrating, but fixing mistakes early prevents bigger issues later.
Fixing backdrop issues early builds confidence and prevents bigger layout problems down the line. A properly aligned backdrop sets the stage for convincing scenery.
Part I: Building an N scale diorama to test my modeling skills
Before committing to adding scenery to the layout, I want to build an N scale diorama featuring a section of track with ballast, a road, vegetation, and a few details.
It doesn’t have to be perfect, but it should serve as a test of my modeling skills after a 15-year hiatus from model railroading.
Basic Trackwork
I glued a strip of EVA foam to a piece of plywood, then secured a section of Micro Engineering Code 55 flex track, which I’ll be using on the layout.
Painting
Next, I painted the track Railroad Tie Brown. I had two Polly Scale bottles from the late 2000s, and both held up surprisingly well.
Ballast
The next step was ballasting the track using Woodland Scenics Buff B1373. I used a technique I have relied on for years – first spreading the ballast over the track, then using both a soft brush and my fingers to evenly distribute it between the ties.
Then, I misted the ballasted track with a 50/50 mix of water and 99.9% isopropyl alcohol, letting it soak for a minute. After that, I used a syringe to apply a 50/50 mix of water and matte medium, slowly sliding it along the rails to glue down the ballast.
Here is the result of the N scale diorama with ballast after the glue have dried.
Weathering the N scale diorama track
For increased realism, I mixed dark brown powdered pigments with plaster of Paris in a 50/50 ratio to weather the area between the rails. Using a brush, I evenly distributed the mixture along the track with several strokes.
Then, I misted the track with water, allowing the plaster to react and permanently set the weathering in place.
Starting Over the N Scale Diorama
Well, I wasn’t happy with the result. The ballast wasn’t evenly distributed, and some grains ended up on top of the ties. I also applied too much matte medium, which left a visible film on the rail sides. Long story short – it was a failure.
And I’m glad I failed. I’d rather make mistakes on a small N scale diorama than on the actual layout. That’s exactly why I built it – to test my skills, learn, and improve. So, I scraped off the ballast, removed the track, and started over.
Referring to other model railroads
I looked through photos of my previous layouts, and to my surprise, the ballast work wasn’t as good as I remembered. It wasn’t terrible, but I now aim for better results. So, I started studying photos and videos of other modelers’ layouts and sought advice on online forums.
One key takeaway was to use less ballast and spread it as evenly as possible. A helpful trick is tapping the tops of the rails with the same teaspoon used to pour the ballast – this helps it settle and compact for a more realistic finish.
I removed the EVA foam and trimmed it to be slightly narrower. Then, I glued it back down and secured the flex track with white glue.
Glueing down the ballast
The track looks a lot better now. I mist the ballast with the same 50/50 water and alcohol mix, and let it soaked. This time I used another method for glueing the ballast, again thanks to an online model railroading forum member. They suggested to mist the ballast, instead of using a pipette or syringe. I used the same 50/50 water and matte medium mix.
Then, I let it dry for a day. It looks much better than the first attempt.
Weathering, Take two.
This time I used black powdered pigments, as brown blends better when mixed with yellow and it more suited for sidings or spurs. 50/50 mixed with plaster of Paris.
With the same technique, I distributed the pigments between the rails with a flat brush.
Then, I misted the diorama with water, allowing the Plaster of Paris in the pigment mix to bond and permanently fix the track weathering.
Here is the final result after the pigments dried and the rail heads were cleaned. Maybe I could have gone lighter with the soot and grease weathering between the rails or used a 30/70 pigment-to-plaster mix instead of 50/50.
Using acrylic or latex paint with a soft roller is a quick way for painting the backdrop sky blue.
Painting the backdrop sky blue is a simple yet effective way to enhance the realism of a model railroad layout. The benchwork’s depth limits the world we can model; thus, the backdrop creates the illusion of extending the space.
There is a school of thought in model railroading that advocates for using a very light blue. The idea is that the backdrop should serve as a subtle foundation rather than a focal point.
This approach helps maintain realism and it enhances the illusion of depth without drawing unnecessary attention.
I used this particular brand of wall paint because it offers excellent coverage and a smooth, flat finish, perfect for creating a seamless backdrop. It’s made by Dulux, a British brand.
After sanding the backdrop panel joints, the backdrop is ready for a coat of paint.
First coat!
After the first coat of paint, I let it dry for about 24 hours before applying the second coat. I then waited another 24 hours before adding a third coat. Here is the backdrop after the paint has dried.
By using subtle colors and smooth transitions, the backdrop serves as a supporting element – complementing the scene rather than competing with it. In the end, the goal is not to create a detailed painting but to establish a convincing setting where the trains remain the focal point.
For added depth, distant mountains can be painted onto the backdrop, especially those characteristic of the San Fernando Valley, California. Soft, hazy outlines in muted earth tones can suggest the presence of the Santa Susana or Verdugo Mountains without overwhelming the scene.
Subtle atmospheric perspective – lighter tones and reduced detail – helps create a sense of distance. With careful shading and color transitions, the backdrop seamlessly integrates with the modeled environment, enhancing realism without distraction.
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