Backdrop reboot. Long story short: don’t be afraid of starting over.
It’s time for a backdrop reboot! I installed the valance and backdrop based on wall measurements, then installed the plywood subroadbed using a laser level. That’s when I realized the valance wasn’t level – and the culprit was the walls, not being square.
Free tip: Always use a laser level. They’re inexpensive and extremely useful – I wish I had bought one before installing the benchwork supports.
The backdrop is mostly fine, with only a small gap on the west end of the layout. However, the gap increases toward the east, as shown in the photo above. While the plywood base is level, the backdrop has a slight but steady incline.
At first, I thought I could fix it since the scenery isn’t done yet. But I quickly realized that the area I’m modeling is flat, with little vegetation – no hills or dense forests to hide the gap.
I tried thinking of a solution, but the more I considered it, the more I realized the backdrop needs to be scrapped and redone from scratch. So I did.
Starting over
Backdrop reboot! I carefully unscrewed and removed the old backdrop, taking care not to damage the LED strip lights or valance. Then, I installed new Faesite (Masonite) panels, aligning the backdrop with the subroadbed plywood base.
After installing the backdrop, I filled the gap with putty and smoothed it out. Now it’s ready for a coat of blue paint.
Using acrylic colors, I painted the plywood base tan. That serves as a basic color for the scenery.
Starting over can be frustrating, but fixing mistakes early prevents bigger issues later.
Fixing backdrop issues early builds confidence and prevents bigger layout problems down the line. A properly aligned backdrop sets the stage for convincing scenery.
Transfer the trackplan on plywood and start wiring the DCC and DC buses
Trackplan
I used masking tape to transfer the trackplan onto the plywood base, then started wiring the DCC and accessory DC buses.
What works on paper doesn’t necessarily translate well to the layout. I like to use masking tape to sketch a rough version of the trackplan directly on the plywood subroadbed, allowing me to test-fit curves, sidings and spurs.
Wiring
There are three main buses running under the layout:
12VC DC bus for lighting, including streetlights and structure lights, using 0.75mm² wires (18 AWG)
I flipped the plywood base and started fixing the bus wires in a temporary, untidy manner. I will clean up the wiring once all the track feeders and Tortoise switch machines are installed, so that I can determine the correct length for each wire.
To tap power without cutting or stripping main wires, I used suitcase connectors – quick, reliable, and ideal for temporary setups. They let me add feeders or accessories on the fly, which is perfect while I’m still fine-tuning the layout.
This approach saves time now and prevents headaches later when the layout is more complete.
Wiring the layout with DCC and accessory power requires both solid planning and a bit of foresight. I installed a robust DCC bus using heavy-gauge wire for consistent power delivery, with feeders soldered in regularly to avoid voltage drops.
Accessory wiring, like 12V DC lines for Tortoise machines and lighting, runs separately for clarity and ease of troubleshooting.
While the system is built to be dependable, I’ve allowed for future adjustments – leaving a bit of slack, labeling connections, and routing wires with accessibility in mind. Layouts evolve, and the wiring can too.
Step-by-step guide on repainting a locomotive. GP40-2 from CSX to Southern Pacific.
Repainting a locomotive can be a fun and rewarding project. I got a couple of N scale Atlas GP40-2 locomotives painted and lettered for CSX off eBay. They were reasonably priced, and I wanted to repaint and letter them in Southern Pacific Railroad’s “Bloody Nose” paint scheme, so I bought both to use them on my N scale layout.
Before repainting a locomotive, it’s best to remove the old paint completely. I began by detaching the shell from the chassis and disassembling all its parts before soaking them in 99% isopropyl alcohol.
I carefully removed all clear plastic components, such as the headlights and windows. Additionally, I disassembled the trucks, as I plan to repaint them SP Gray.
Now, all the parts are fully disassembled and ready for paint stripping.
Paint stripping
I submerged all the disassembled parts in 99% isopropyl alcohol, using a glass jar with a sealing lid to prevent evaporation
After 24 hours, I used a soft toothbrush to carefully remove all the softened paint. I paid particular attention to the delicate handrails to avoid damaging them while ensuring the paint was completely removed.
Repainting the locomotive parts
I then painted the nose and tail with SP Scarlet with an unopened bottle of Polly Scale paint that has lasted through the years – I purchased it in 2006! A a backup bottle of Vallejo Red RLM23 (71.003) was available, which can be used as a substitute for the discontinued Polly Scale color.
I prefer SP Scarlet from Polly Scale over Vallejo Red, as it should match the red “wings” on the Microscale decals.
After masking the nose and tail, I painted the rest of the locomotive in SP Lark Dark Gray. I had a couple of Polly Scale SP Lark Dark Gray bottles from mid 2000s, but neither aged well. So I opted for Vallejo Engine Gray (71.048), which is a very close match.
I also painted the disassembled trucks and fuel tanks. After letting everything dry, I removed the Tamiya 6mm masking tape.
And here are the two GP40-2 locomotives, ready for a coat of clear gloss varnish before applying the lettering.
Detailing
Before finalizing the painting, I added a few details to the locomotives: cab sunshades and snow plows. I purchased them from Trainworx.
I used a hand drill with micro drill bits to carefully make holes in the cab for the sunshades.
After the glue has dried, I painted the sunshades with the same Vallejo Engine Gray color.
I then added a Trainworx snow plow. Using a sharp hobby knife, I trimmed a small piece of plastic from the locomotive’s front to fit the plow.
Then, using a hand drill and a fine drill bit, I drilled two small holes.
I used Tamiya Multipurpose Cement (Clear) glue to secure the snow plow in place.
Lettering
Using Microscale decals, I completed the GP40-2 lettering after repainting the locomotives. I chose to model units 7240 and 7609.
The red wings on the nose are always a bit tricky to apply, but I managed to get through it.
Weathering
I then applied a weathering coat by washing the grills and adjacent areas with black India ink, followed by airbrushing a couple of layers of Polly Scale Depot Buff (70/30 thinner-to-paint mix).
The Depot Buff (light tan color) replicates a layer of accumulated dust.
Here is the final result. Southern Pacific GP40-2 7609 and Southern Pacific GP40-2 7240, both equipped with a Zimo MX615 DCC decoder.
Step-by-step on painting freight cars in batches with airbrush and acrylic colors
Painting freight cars: I recently purchased a few inexpensive, older Roundhouse boxcars and Athearn mechanical reefers on eBay to repaint and letter for the Southern Pacific Railroad and Southern Pacific Fruit Express.
For this project, I used the discontinued Polly Scale Boxcar Red – yes, I still have a bottle from 2007 – along with Vallejo acrylic paints. Unfortunately, the Polly Scale paint had aged poorly and clogged the airbrush, regardless of how much I thinned it.
I prefer to paint in batches to make the most of my effort.
This time, I prepared three 2-bay covered hoppers, four boxcars, three 57′ mechanical reefers (to be painted and lettered for SPFE – Southern Pacific Fruit Express), and one old, inexpensive caboose.
57′ Mechanical Reefers
Soaking the boxcar shell in 99% isopropyl alcohol for at least three days significantly simplifies the paint removal process. As shown above, the paint practically lifts off the shell!
I washed the car with warm water and a drop of soap to remove fingerprints or oils, wearing plastic gloves. I used a soft toothbrush.
Reefers are now ready for a coat of gloss varnish. This layer provides a smooth surface for easier decal application, helping the waterslide decals adhere properly without silvering.
Lettering (applying waterslide decals)
To apply the decals, I first cut them out carefully, staying close to the printed edges for a clean finish.
I soaked the decals in warm water for 10–15 seconds, just enough to loosen them from the backing paper without over-soaking. I gently slid the decal onto the car, positioning it with a soft brush or tweezers.
For tricky areas, I used Microscale Micro Set decal-setting solution to help the decal conform to surface details like rivets or panel lines. For the most difficult irregular surfaces I used Microscale Micro Sol, to soften the decals for a few seconds before applying them.
Once positioned, I lightly dabbed with a cotton swab or soft cloth to remove excess water and ensure the decal sits flush.
I allowed the decals to dry completely before applying a final coat of clear matte to seal and protect them.
After the flat clear coat dried, I proceeded with installing Micro Trains Line 1015 body-mount couplers. I drilled a hole in the metal chassis e screwed the couplers down.
Painting undecorated cars can be a daunting task, requiring skills like airbrushing and decaling. However, finding a cheap undecorated car to experiment with and refine these techniques is fairly easy.
Moreover, if you have a decorated car that you never liked, it could be a good candidate for this project.
Part I: Building an N scale diorama to test my modeling skills
Before committing to adding scenery to the layout, I want to build an N scale diorama featuring a section of track with ballast, a road, vegetation, and a few details.
It doesn’t have to be perfect, but it should serve as a test of my modeling skills after a 15-year hiatus from model railroading.
Basic Trackwork
I glued a strip of EVA foam to a piece of plywood, then secured a section of Micro Engineering Code 55 flex track, which I’ll be using on the layout.
Painting
Next, I painted the track Railroad Tie Brown. I had two Polly Scale bottles from the late 2000s, and both held up surprisingly well.
Ballast
The next step was ballasting the track using Woodland Scenics Buff B1373. I used a technique I have relied on for years – first spreading the ballast over the track, then using both a soft brush and my fingers to evenly distribute it between the ties.
Then, I misted the ballasted track with a 50/50 mix of water and 99.9% isopropyl alcohol, letting it soak for a minute. After that, I used a syringe to apply a 50/50 mix of water and matte medium, slowly sliding it along the rails to glue down the ballast.
Here is the result of the N scale diorama with ballast after the glue have dried.
Weathering the N scale diorama track
For increased realism, I mixed dark brown powdered pigments with plaster of Paris in a 50/50 ratio to weather the area between the rails. Using a brush, I evenly distributed the mixture along the track with several strokes.
Then, I misted the track with water, allowing the plaster to react and permanently set the weathering in place.
Starting Over the N Scale Diorama
Well, I wasn’t happy with the result. The ballast wasn’t evenly distributed, and some grains ended up on top of the ties. I also applied too much matte medium, which left a visible film on the rail sides. Long story short – it was a failure.
And I’m glad I failed. I’d rather make mistakes on a small N scale diorama than on the actual layout. That’s exactly why I built it – to test my skills, learn, and improve. So, I scraped off the ballast, removed the track, and started over.
Referring to other model railroads
I looked through photos of my previous layouts, and to my surprise, the ballast work wasn’t as good as I remembered. It wasn’t terrible, but I now aim for better results. So, I started studying photos and videos of other modelers’ layouts and sought advice on online forums.
One key takeaway was to use less ballast and spread it as evenly as possible. A helpful trick is tapping the tops of the rails with the same teaspoon used to pour the ballast – this helps it settle and compact for a more realistic finish.
I removed the EVA foam and trimmed it to be slightly narrower. Then, I glued it back down and secured the flex track with white glue.
Glueing down the ballast
The track looks a lot better now. I mist the ballast with the same 50/50 water and alcohol mix, and let it soaked. This time I used another method for glueing the ballast, again thanks to an online model railroading forum member. They suggested to mist the ballast, instead of using a pipette or syringe. I used the same 50/50 water and matte medium mix.
Then, I let it dry for a day. It looks much better than the first attempt.
Weathering, Take two.
This time I used black powdered pigments, as brown blends better when mixed with yellow and it more suited for sidings or spurs. 50/50 mixed with plaster of Paris.
With the same technique, I distributed the pigments between the rails with a flat brush.
Then, I misted the diorama with water, allowing the Plaster of Paris in the pigment mix to bond and permanently fix the track weathering.
Here is the final result after the pigments dried and the rail heads were cleaned. Maybe I could have gone lighter with the soot and grease weathering between the rails or used a 30/70 pigment-to-plaster mix instead of 50/50.
How much should model railroad cars weigh? Let’s explore NMRA Recommended Practice 20
A proper model railroad cars weight plays a key role in ensuring smooth operations, especially on tight curves and uneven track sections where some cars may derail. Also, properly weighted cars significantly improve realistic operations, especially when it comes to coupling and uncoupling.
Using 5-gram (0.18 oz) tire balancing weights to add weight to a covered hopper.
The ideal weight for each car depends on its length. Using NMRA standards, particularly RP-20, you can calculate the optimal weight for any car and adjust it if needed by adding extra weight.
How to calculate weight
Here’s the formula for determining the recommended weight of a model train car:
Recommended weight = Initial weight + (Car length × Additional weight per unit length)
Let’s break it down with a practical example.
The image above shows an N scale Atlas ACF 2-bay covered hopper. It weighs 15 grams (including trucks, wheels, couplers, and a factory-installed weight) and measures 70 mm in length. According to the NMRA RP-20 standards, the initial weight for N scale is 14.17 grams (0.5 oz). The additional weight is calculated as 0.15 oz per inch (equivalent to 4.25 grams per 25.4 mm, or approximately 0.167 grams per mm).
Initial weight = 14.17 g
Car length = 70 mm
Additional weight = 70 mm × 0.167 g/mm = 11.69 g
Total Recommended Weight:
Total Weight = 14.17 g + 11.69 g = 25.86 g
A 15 g, 70mm car should weigh almost 26 g, so I need to add 10 g. Tire balancing stick-on weights are an excellent choice for adding weight. They’re affordable, easy to find, and readily available. My approach involves removing the car shell, identifying suitable spots to place the weights, and securing them with adhesive.
Adding weight to model railroad cars requires a bit of extra effort, but it pays off in the long run.
Painting an SP caboose, originally in Chessie System color scheme.
Step-by-step on painting an SP caboose. In the late 2000s, I was gifted an inexpensive (and rather imprecise) Chessie System caboose manufactured by Model Power. I wasn’t sure what to do with it until I found reference photos online. I discovered that some older cabooses were repainted with orange ends after 1955.
By the 1970s, it wasn’t uncommon to see these cabooses with their roofwalks and ladders removed. This inspired me to modify and repaint the caboose in Southern Pacific’s brown and Daylight Orange scheme, to use it on my N scale layout.
I know this model isn’t a perfect replica of the C-40-1 class caboose I’m aiming for, but I’m willing to accept the compromise. This project is a great opportunity to learn new techniques and, most importantly, have fun.
Filling holes
To fill the holes left in the roof after removing the roofwalks, I used Tamiya Putty.
Using a hobby knife, I removed the ladders from the end platforms, leaving only the brake wheel and a low handrail. I also removed the Rapido coupler from the truck to install a Micro-Trains 1015 body-mount knuckle coupler.
Painting an SP caboose
After filling the holes with putty and smoothly sanding them down, I painted the caboose. For the brown, I mixed two Vallejo Model Air colors, adding a few extra drops of Vallejo Brown RLM26 (71.105) to Vallejo Camouflage Medium Brown (71.038) instead of using a 1:1 ratio.
I then masked the shell for the Daylight Orange coat. I used Tamiya 6mm masking tape along with a wider masking tape purchased from a DIY store.
To paint the ends Daylight Orange, I used a very old bottle of (now discontinued) Polly Scale SP Daylight Orange that I’ve had since the mid-2000s. I carefully stirred the paint for a few minutes and thinned it at a 2:3 ratio (two parts paint and three parts thinner). Since the paint had aged poorly, I applied it in thin layers to achieve a smooth finish.
The shell is painted, and now I’m ready to paint the chassis. The stairs and the end platform will be painted brown.
After the paint have dried, I applied a coat of gloss varnish.
Lettering (applying waterslide decals)
To apply the decals, I first cut them out carefully, staying close to the printed edges for a clean finish.
I soaked the decals in warm water for 10-15 seconds, just enough to loosen them from the backing paper without over-soaking. I gently slide the decal onto the car, positioning it with a soft brush or tweezers.
For tricky areas, I used Microscale Micro Set decal-setting solution to help the decal conform to surface details like rivets or panel lines. For the most difficult irregular surfaces I used Microscale Micro Sol, to soften the decals for a few seconds before applying it.
Once positioned, I lightly dabbed with a cotton swab or soft cloth to remove excess water and ensure the decal sits flush.
I allowed the decals to dry completely before applying a final coat of clear matte to seal and protect them.
I painted the handrails white with a small paintbrush, using Vallejo white paint.
Trucks and Couplers
Trucks needed to be upgraded, so I used Micro-Trains 1184 (Bettendorf Switch Motion Caboose Trucks). I also installed Micro-Trains 1015 body-mount couplers.
Weathering
I started by applying AK Paneliner (Black) brushing it onto every panel line. Before proceeding, I removed the wheel axles and the couplers.
I then masked the sides of the trucks where the axle points sit.
Then, I applied a thinned layer of tan paint (20% paint, 80% thinner). I had an old Acqueous Hobby Color that was still in great condition, so I used it. I applied several thin layers to the lower part of the body and trucks to simulate dust accumulation from operation.
I brushed the trucks with some brown powder, which has a very flat finish and effectively simulates layers of rust and grime.
I added streaks of dirt running down from the roof exhaust.
I then applied a coat of Tamiya XF-86 Flat Clear to seal the weathering on the caboose.
Conclusion
While this model isn’t a perfect replica of the C-40-1 class caboose, I think it’s a great addition to the roster. Plus, it’s been a fun and quick project that I completed over the course of a few evenings.
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